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My Detailed Mod Page

Intercooler Switch- AS it is commonly known the way to control the IC pump manually is to ground the yellow wire on the relay that is located on the firewall. There are two relays you want the one with the yellow wire. The easiest way to do it is to cut that yellow wire and then run a butt connector from the relay side to a switch. Then run a wire from the other end of the switch to a good ground. I located my switch under the dash by the fog light control. There is a little recess that the switch fits nicly into, a little velcro and it was good to go. Running it into the cab ment running wires through the firewall, Look under the 'firewall pass-through' section to find where I ran my wires through the firewall.

Homemade Aux. Intercooler cooler

Parts I used

The first thing to do is find the Hayen cooler. In the Midwest there are lots of Whitlock Auto Supply stores and they carry Hayden also Pep Boys carries there line. Next it to find the Pump, this may prove to be a little bit difficult. Camping world carries Shurflo pumps. I got mine in Denver, I just happened to be there for a vacation and noticed a Camping World, so I picked up my pump there. The model number is 2088-403-444. With those two things taken care of you are ready to start. First thing is to remove the grille. There are 6-8 torx serewn and then two plastic bolts on the ends. The torx are pretty much straight-forward and all I did for the end screws was pull the bumper up and off them. The other option is to use a long extension from underneath and take the screw out. Also remove the hood support bracket and the power steering cooler. They will be delt with later. Next it to drain the stock IC cooler. After doing this take off the plastic 'skid plate' which is done by removing 6-8 more screws. With this off there are 4 bolts that will allow you to drop the IC cooler down. With a little struggling the cooler should be free. Disconnect the pump wiring connector and the temp sensor and it should be free.

Now that that is out of the way you are ready to begin. Since I didn't plan on ever reinstalling the stock pump I cut the bracket for it off. This made getting it back into place the 20 or so times I put it back much easier, a little primer and paint and it is all set. Remove the pump and the tubing from the back of the cooler and put them aside. You will use the small 90* elbow later. Now for the rest of the removal. Making sure all the hoses are empty before you do it remove the rest of the IC plumbing. Including the two metal tubes and the remaining heater hoses. To get a feel for what you have to do it is helpfull to know what you are planning on doing. This means knowing what order the new components will be in. For me this meant the IC would run to the stock cooler then to the pump then to the new cooler and back to the IC. The first hoses to run are the ones on the back of the stock cooler. Using the stock 90* elbow you removed connect it to the bottom of the cooler (bottom as it sits in the truck). Then using a 3/4 to 3/4 connector connect it to a long piece of 3/4 tubing (~7') to run to the IC. Then using a small piece of tubing connect the top hole to a 90* hard elbow. From the hard elbow then attach another piece of 3/4"heater hose so that it will have enough length to go to the new pump (at least 1' just to be safe). This is where I devieate from what I have ever heard anyone else do. Instead of mounting the pump in the engine compartment on the fender well I mounted mine in the cavity behind the bumper on the IC cooler bracket. See the pictures. When you look at it with the stock cooler in place it will make sence, there is almost like a floor that the pump can just be squeezed onto. It is tight but very out of the way. It takes some finess but after a while you will discover that all the hoses do fit. I positioned the pump just right of center so that the hose end was up. The inlet end of the hose is pointing toward the back corner of the truck. With it positioned like this the connection from the upper stock cooler hose lines up perfectly. I simply pushed the 3/4 hose over the end of the pump fitting using some gasket maker to help seal the threads. (I learned this only after it leaked a little). Is this confusing? Maybe it will sound better this way. From the lower hole on the IC a 3/4" hose is run through the right side of the engine bay and through the rather large hole created by removing the air box. The hose continues along the bumper to the lower connection on the stock cooler via a hose connector and the stock 90* elbow. Then the fluid runs throught the cooler and out the upper hole. From here it goes through a short piece (~1") of heater hose into a 90* rigid elbow into another length of heater hose and then into the inlet side of the pump which is very close.

Mounting the pump is easy in theory but with almost no room to work will take a little time. It is mounted with three screws, pilot holes are a must! In order to find where it fits though you have to try to hook up the hoses as you put the IC cooler back in place. Again this is easier than it soundshopefully yiou still have some skin on you hand and can find where to mount the pump. Dropping the cooler out again to make the pilot holes is easier than any alternative I now if. Again you have to try to get everything hooked up as you put the cooler back in place leaving the cooler loose helps. Then mount the pump making sure you are not screwing into the stock cooler only into the mounting bracket. With that most of the hard work is done.

The next step is to run a hose from the outlet of the pump to the new cooler. For this I attached a 3/4" 90* radiator hose elbow to the pump (again using gasket maker). Then there is another 3/4 to 3/4 hose connector that goes to the 3/4 inch hose. This hose is relatively short as it will run to the drivers side of the new cooler. Now to prep the grille area fot the new cooler. Behind where the hood support was there will be a thin pressed sheet metal piece that needs to be cut off. The easiest way I found to do this was to use a tin snips to make a rough cut and then to carefully finish it off by using a small sanding disk or grinding wheel. A little primer and paint here will also insure it doesn't rust. Do this on both the top and bottom so that it is flush on both sides.

Next is to mount the cooler. I mounted mine so that it sits toward the top of the stock radiator and is centered. You will need the Hayden mounting kit (P/N ) it has four rods that go through the cooler and stock radiator and then connect on the back side. There area also some pads that go between the two coolers. Before you put the cooler in place though you should attach the 3/4" npt to 3/4"hose barb using thread compound to each end of the hayden cooler. Once this is tightened up you are ready to do surgery on the hood support. Place it roughlt where it should go and mark where material needs to be removed. A ban saw works great to remove the notched area but a hack saw, gringing wheel, or even a saber saw should work just fine. With that done test fit it and make sure there is adequate clearance. Prime, paint it and reinstall it with the three screws. Now you will still have to put the power steering cooler back in place. Two of the mounting spots are retained but the third (middle upper screw) is lost. All I did was bend the bracket so that it is out of the way (so that it goes behind the support) . Now that everything is mounted next thing to do is finish running the hoses. When we left off we had a elbow from the pump going into the heater hose. This heater hose is routed so that it runs to the drivers side inlet of the new cooler. Then from the other end of the cooler (passenger side) take and run a hose back along the inside of the bumper through the same large hole the other hose came through along the right side of the engine bay and up toward the upper connector on the IC. There is a stock elbow that was used here and should be reused. Then it just takes a hose connector to connect to the 3/4" heater hose that came up from the new cooler.

What I did here was install a 3/4" 'T' fitting and on the T end of that threaded a female 3/4" to female 1/8" fitting to accept my cyberdyne temperature sensor. This way I get the temperature of the coolant just as it enteres the IC.

Almost done, the next thing you have to do is wire it so that the pump gets power. What I did was just cut the wiring connector off of the stock pump and then attached it to the vehicle wire harness. Run the black from the pump to the black on the cut end of the wiring harness and the red to the orange wire. Easy enough, a few wire ties and it looks clean enough. Now you are ready to give it atry. Making sure all the hose clamps are tight, gasket maker is dry and thread compound is used where it sould be add some coolant to the IC and run the pump either by turning the ignition on and flipping the switch (see above) or by jumping the A-B pins on the ALDL also with the ignition on. This will start to circulate the coolant and the air is released you will need to add more coolant so keep an eye on it. Look for any leaks and if there are none you are ready to put it back together. This is the opposite of removal just put the grille back in and reattach the torx screws and plastic screws on the ends. Also make sure you hook the turn signal lights back up. Lastly put back the skid plate back in place, and you are all set. It shoudln't take all that long, the hardest part is finding all the parts. Instalation should take 4 hours or less not including the time for the painted pieces to dry.

Some more tips

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator ATR P/N SY 377-06

The instalation of this is pretty much straight-forward. It is a very good idea to remove the IC by removing the three bolts underneath it, some socket extensions make this much easier. With this done you can get some access to the regulator. First bleed off the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail, also place a rag under the regulator so that when you remove it your engine doesn't smell like fuel or worse yet burn like fuel after you start it. There are just two allen bolts holding the regulator to the fuel rail, they are easy enough to remove but don't drop them chances are they will be lost. If you happen to loose then the replacement part is a metric cap head screw with fine threads. Not fun to find but not all that bad either, (I know this one from experience). In order to get the regulator off the fuel line it helps to have a 5/8" hose wrench. Chnaces are it is pretty tight. With it removed all you have to do is install the new one. ATR reccomends a little white lithium grease on the fuel rail connection. They also reccomend that you srart the fuel line connection before you put the regulator on the fuel line. I highly recommend that you follow both of these instructions. Tighten everything up and you should be all set. Reinstall the IC and give it a run. Making sure you adjust the pressure using a good gauge. Stock pressure is 38-43 pounds.

Air Intake

What I wanted out of the air intake system was the freeest flowing intake I could have. This meant that nothing but a K&N conical filter would do. And I certanly wasn't going to run it through the stock pipe, I wanted it to go straight into the turbo. There were several obsticles though, the PCV system would have to have something done about it, how would I get the filer to mount, and what about the battery, only to mention a few. Also I didn't feel like spending big bucks for one of the name brand cold aid boxes as there performance is subject to some ridicule. I tried and tried to get answers from people on the list but came up empty, except for some advice I got from Josh Branch who was going through the same problems I was. Anyway I finally have it finished o here is what I did.

I completely ditched the stock box, box mounting bracket, and air feed, this was in part neccessary to get my IC lines through. First thing was to overcome the breather issue. I went to the local parts shop and picked up the K&N breather that was suppost to fit GM's P/N . I guess it is suppost to go where the oil filler cap is. No luck though, it was far to small. What I did to rectify the situation was, using a 1/2" drill bit I bored the hole out a bit at a time untill I could squeeze it on the end of the tube that comes off the back of the drivers side valve cover. Works great! Next to get the 9" K&N (P/N ) to mount to the turbo. What would have worked great is a 2" ID to 3" ID 90* elbow. I couldn't find one for the life of me. After many hours of looking at it and a few trying to do it I decided that the stock orange hose would fit weather it wanted to or not. Believe me it wasn't a easy fit but it did go eventually. You have to bend some of the air conditioning lines out of the way but it does fit believe me. You can even look at the picture if you don't. The K&N I picked up fits right on the end of the stock elbow and is tightened by a hose clamp. Lastly there was the issue of the PCV hose that went into the middle of the stock air pipe. What I did for this was simply take out the fitting from the stock pipe, and then drill a hole just big enough to fit the fitting in with the hose attached. Seams to work fine and it looks cool. Also I can't get enough of the sound the turbo makes when you let off of it.

The next part to smooth off was the stock ribbed turbo to IC hose. Go to Track Auto or any other automotive store and ask to look at part number 70689. It should be a 2" ID hose with a ~90* bend in it.  A little trimming and it fits great, and it should flow much better than that lame stock unit.

The last part I picked up was the throttle body Air Foil. (ATR P/N SY118). I know that there has been some talk about the effectiveness of this on turbocharged vehicles but I figured what the heck it can't hurt. Instalation is real simple. Just remove the two hose clamps going from the IC to the throttle body and then remove the 6 screws on the top of the throttle body. There is only one way it goes it so you can't get it wrong. Put everything back together and you are all set. Free flowing intake!

Suspension Fun

It is obvious that the Typhoon and likewise the Syclone can use some help with handeling, especially in leveling out the cornering. The first step I took was to remove the stock air adjustable rear shocks. The way I figured it is it was extra weight for something that was going to be disabled anyway. I removes the compressor assembly that is located in the drivers rear corner. It came out real easy with only a few bolts. Next was to remove the actuating arm that is mounted to the axle. This also came off real easy. The only other thing to remove was the air lines and the two connectors. Lastly I taped off the electrical commectors that I disconnected and I was set to go on with the modifications.

I decided to go with Tokico shocks front and rear. The rear shocks came first, and boy they were more than I expected as far as changing them. On the bottom there is one bolt that holds the shock on and it was real easy to get off, a little leverage and it came right off. The top ones however, were a pain to get at. There are two of them and they are both hidden real well. It would probably h3elp to have a universal joint and an extension, although I did mine without. Anyway plan some time of you plan on doing this. I thought once I got the bolts out I was home free. Not so as I mentioned earlier the bottom mount has one bolt and thjat bolt holds the shock on a pin that is connected to the frame. The problem was that on mine the shock was rust welded onto the stud. I tried hear penetrating oil, and a whole lot of muscle before I decided to cut it off. Even after I cut it off it took a while to get the sleve off of the ctud. Hopefully you won't have this problem. Bolting in the new ones was real easy, remember to use some anti-seze that way next time it should be easier.

The front shocks looked easier and were to some degree. The bottom mount is easy to get off and is easily accessable. The top mount is a pain though especially on the passeneger side with the turbo in the way. Also it is a bit of an odd sized socket, 18mm, I had to borrow one from a neighbor so be prepaired. Like the rear the new shocks bolted in real easy.

The next thing I decided was a must was a rear sway bar. I decided to go with the Suspension Techniques bar as it rides under the differential and will not interfere with the underbody like some other bars do. Instelation is pretty much straightforward. There are a couple of 'U' brackets that go over the axle and bolt onto the bushing holders that hold the center of the sway-bar. You just center it and make sure it is directly under the axle and then tighten it up. The next step is to mount it to the frame. I ws a little confised here as I didnt really know where on the frame to mount it but I seam to have done it correctly. As the directions state and I followed you make sure the vehicle is at stock ride height and then you mark where the end brackets come to on the frame. It is necessary to drill a 1/2" hole on each side of the frame so be prepared for that. I ended up drilling about halfway up the frame. Like I said you need to drill a 1/2" hole so make sure you have a drill bit that size. They only cost about $10 but keep that in mind that you need one. The first time you throw the drill bit in and look at drilling it most likely you will run into the same problem I did. My drill was too long. In fact it needs to be shorter than 10.5" (including bit) in order to fit behind the bodywork. Unless you go from the backside of the frame. Notice I am telling you this bacause it took me almost an hour of looking at it before I realized that this would work. Anyway from the backside it is much clearer, the muffler is in the way somewhat but you can still get the holes through. After the holes are drilled all it takes is to throw in some bolts and tighten everything up.

In my opinion handeling is one of the most inportant aspects of performance. It is difficult for me to gauge how much this helped since the Ty sat for 5 months before I drove it with the improvements but I will sya that I can take corners much faster now and the car stays planted better especially in rough corners. Also people that rode in it before and after say it is much better now. I highly recomend both the Tokico shocks and Suspension Tech bar. I bought all of my suspension pieces through Stillen in California. They got them to me in a hurry and were reasonably priced at $45 per shock and $130 for the sway bar.